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“Welcome to the burghal of El Dorado, Arkansas, U.S.A.” reads the banderole on a collapsible date breadth a bounded bandage is active in their instruments. It’s a ablaze September weekend in a bizarre application of southwest Arkansas. The town’s name became emblematic in the 1920s aback a biggy oil able-bodied was discovered, authoritative it the epicenter of the Arkansas oil boom. By 1930, El Dorado was the wealthiest boondocks in America, a catholic acquittal in the all-inclusive apathy of average America. The alone adumbration of that celebrity today, is the abundant top bisected of an anachronistic amphitheater that peaks out from abaft a tall, chain-link fence.

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These days, MusicFest is El Dorado’s ablaze spot. For 31 years, the bounded abatement fair is a time aback bodies accumulate by fountains and in vine-strewn squares alert to locals sing Chris Isaak covers and canyon about tip jars. Bleachers are set up to sit and assistant an colossal lemonade. Girls cutting Miss MusicFest sashes and tiaras bandage up by the stage. Vendors in carriageable tents militarist all the things you’d expect: affection rings, backcountry beastly sculptures and absurd pies. Aftermost year, there was no affirmation that the better hip-hop bandage in the world, Migos, was arena in bristles hours.

Suddenly, Quavo and Takeoff were dangling over the adenoids of a catwalk, gold chains decrepit over the foreheads of charged-up teenagers. Offset looked like he’d accustomed from a Matrix movie in a continued atramentous coat, bug-eye shades and a blubbery lion’s aigrette of dreads. If that wasn’t surreal enough, Brad Paisley performed earlier, his smile was bashed beyond sixteen-wheeler trucks anchored about El Dorado like freighters docked in a course pool. At one point, Paisley active the anatomy of his electric Fender and gave it to a adolescent boy in a white cowboy hat sitting on his father’s shoulders. Paisley apparently does this at every show. But in El Dorado, he actually was a aureate god.

“You’re spoiled,” Paisley said onstage, wagging his feel at the absolute of ablaze iPhone lights. “In my hometown, we had a drive-in cine amphitheater and Ponderosa steak house. If I had all this, I don’t apperceive if I anytime would’ve left.”

The country brilliant was apropos to the just-unveiled Murphy Arts District, a $100 actor activity aimed at authoritative El Dorado a active destination for arts, ability and music in the south. The acme jewels of its aboriginal appearance of architecture are two advanced concert venues: the MAD Amphitheater, breadth Paisley, ZZ Top, Smokey Robinson, X Ambassadors, John Hiatt, Robert Earl Keen, Lyle Lovett, Robert Randolph and others played that weekend. It accommodates 7,500, which is about bisected of El Dorado’s absolute population. Adjacent is the Griffin Music Hall, an calm breadth that holds a added bashful 2,500. That’s breadth Migos, Train, Natasha Beddingfield and Ludacris performed.

Entering the Murphy Arts District, you canyon a absolute 1940s oil derrick. It’s abnormally beautiful, like a miniature Eiffel Tower. Water bursts through the arena at its abject — akin an oil gusher — that kids jump to t while adults book through metal detectors. The 50-acre circuitous is alleged afterwards the bounded oil magnate who formed alongside a aggregation of bounded business leaders and politicians to body the district. It carefully spells “MAD” because, alike to him, architecture a music burghal in the average of boilerplate is, well, insane. The catchphrase? “No one acclimated to apperceive breadth Woodstock was either.”

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MAD plays up the applesauce of its own actuality by selecting huge boilerplate acts that you’d never acquisition arena a boondocks like this, from berserk altered genres, in a way that eschews any admiration of applicable into the norm. This year’s MusicFest, October 18-20th, has committed one night to beeline up alarm (George Clinton and Parliament Funkadelic, Morris Day and the Time, Sheila E.), addition to beeline up beard metal (Sammy Hagar and the Circle, Bret Michaels, Lita Ford) and addition to big, -beating country (Toby Keith, Justin Moore and Carly Pierce). The official headlining artists? Gucci Aigrette and 2Chainz.

This altered programming activity has yielded some absorbing after-effects in its aboriginal year. El Dorado will go weeks afterwards a booking, afresh get acquisition calls from the Beach Boys about absent to comedy a show, says MAD’s CMO Bob Tarren. One of MAD’s better sold-out crowds additionally came from a acquisition alarm by a accepted Christian accumulation alleged Casting Crowns. MAD has coiled through a accumulation of performers throughout the year – from the Shanghai Acrobats to Kiefer Sutherland’s band, Shopkins! Alive to Hank Williams Jr. But there is a adjustment to the, alibi the pun, madness.

Getting to El Dorado at all is a big ask. “The antic acclimated to be we were two hours from anywhere,” Madison Murphy says a blow defensively. Clearly, the joke’s beat thin. Little Bedrock is a two-hour drive north. The aing bartering airport, in Monroe, Louisiana, is a two-hour drive east. There are some breathtaking parts, but mostly, it’s a continued drive through alone fields alternate by burned-down meth labs and towns that are alone identifiable by an AutoZone and a cartage light. And all that abandoned acreage is a connected admonition of breadth El Dorado is headed if MAD doesn’t work.

“Obviously, basement is an affair for us,” says Murphy. “We don’t accept a aloft airport. We’re not a music-tour hub. We don’t accept a burghal hotel. We don’t accept a aloft university – or alike a accessory one. Northwest Arkansas is apparently in the top bristles growing NSAs in the country. We’re not.” He cuts himself off with an brusque pause, as if analytic for a blunt way to bypass a diffuse absolution he’s annoyed of repeating. Investing in art and music is a blue-blooded endeavor. But doesn’t history acquaint us that scenes booty time to coagulate? Can you install an arts arena like you would a generator?

It’s a big bet to accomplish abnormally aback there was no archetypal burghal they replicated in addition this out, Murphy says. “I’m not abiding there is a one-size-fits-all way for how to do article like this,” he says thoughtfully. “Comparisons are abhorrent and generalizations are dangerous.” He leaves it at that.

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Madison Murphy is a gangling amount with a bristly, dark-gray mustache. Dressed in dejected jeans, talking about accepting calm with his El Dorado pals to beating out covers of B.B. King and Led Zeppelin at dive confined about town, it’s accessible to balloon he’s one of the wealthiest men in the state. Despite his aberrant means, Murphy never larboard El Dorado. He lives in boondocks with his wife Suzanne, whom he met aback they were lab ally at El Dorado Average School. He’d collapsed in love, he explains, so he abounding Hendrix College, a baby advanced arts academy aloof a few hours abroad in Conway, Arkansas.

El Dorado hasn’t afflicted abundant aback he was a kid, he says. But there are attenuate break the boondocks is in transition. A Daughters of the Confederacy bronze stands adverse a thrumming PJ’s Coffee. A battered cairn to the oil antecedents lies in the adumbration of a tall, tan architecture breadth the new MAD offices are located. The celebrated Rialto Theater, abeyant off-and-on for decades, is adorned with “Under Construction” signs. Murphy affairs to re-open it in 2021, actually restored.

Murphy’s grandfathering was a adolescent broker who acclimatized in El Dorado in the aboriginal 1900s afore the oil boom. So aback it hit, the Murphy ancestors –—worth over a billion dollars today — was able-bodied positioned. In 1950, Charles and his three sisters formed the Murphy Oil company. Despite added companies and industries abrogation in the amid years, Murphy Oil stayed. “We’re a bit of an anomaly, with accumulated abode in a boondocks of 18,000,” says Murphy. He grasps the weight of the company’s history in El Dorado; that the affiliation is added allegorical than symbiotic. Relocation would accept been cher and bootless for the company, he says. Worse, it would’ve removed the town’s rudder.

Others understandably accept a adamantine to prioritizing the character of a boondocks breadth there is no work. El Dorado is bedeviled by job absence and citizenry decline. Over the years, Murphy was complex in efforts to about-face those trends. In 2007, Murphy Oil adjourned a abounding academy charge scholarship for acceptance who abounding El Dorado accessible schools for 12 years alleged the El Dorado Promise. In 2011, a new appointment centermost was congenital for business affairs and conventions. “I didn’t apprehension any hockey-stick aisle advancement afterwards them,” Murphy says. “They artlessly stemmed the decline. Article abroad bare to occur.”

El Dorado assassin Roger Brooks of Destination Development International to beforehand an activity plan to abode its assimilation problem. In 2011, Brooks and his aggregation appear absolute analysis proving that stering its tourism industry was the answer. And the best way, according to the study, would be to actualize some affectionate of arts and ball district. It could accommodate accomplishing jobs, animate the community, actualize new pathways to education. Sounds like a no-brainer, until you attending at a map.

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When Murphy Oil’s arch controlling Claiborne Deming heard Brooks’ speech, he angry to Murphy, who was sitting aing to him and asked: “What about a concert?” Nothing like it existed in El Dorado or, for that matter, anywhere nearby. It was a adventurous idea. Ostensibly an childish one. But with abounding aplomb of the Brooks abstraction after-effects – and maybe cerebration that they’d approved aggregate abroad — the El Dorado Festival and Events Initiative began accession accessible and clandestine funds. The all-embracing music programming acquired abundant later.

Votes of aplomb formed in. The burghal of El Dorado kicked in $11 actor and the accompaniment of Arkansas gave addition $5 million. Madison and Suzanne Murphy gave through the clandestine Murphy Foundation and Walmart founders, the Walton Ancestors Foundation, additionally donated aboriginal on afore there was any absolute accurate plan. Murphy Oil and Murphy USA gave the better shares. “I was abundantly afraid at the activity that both boards approached this,” Murphy says. “But these are smart, adroit people, who apperceive the issues we face.” By the end, there were able-bodied over 100 donations. MAD was underway.

Murphy bare a arch controlling with music industry connections, administration experience, and – given this odd adventure – addition who was a little bit scrappy. That actuality was Terry Stewart, a southerner at heart, who served as admiral and CEO of the Bedrock and Cycle Hall of Fame in Cleveland for 12 years. His aptitude was to accompany added burghal genres like hip-hop, body and R&B to baby to adolescent bodies as able-bodied as El Dorado’s African American population. MAD’s programming bare to serve anybody in the community. It wasn’t abundant to put on addition bedrock and country show. Stewart additionally fabricated abiding El Dorado had casework like Airbnb in beforehand of the aperture weekend. “Uber told us they wouldn’t be here,” Stewart says. “But afresh these bounded guys ample out how to actualize their own attendance below the Uber name.” So now El Dorado has Uber, or at atomic some bootleg adaptation of it.

Murphy assassin a aloft El Dorado resident, Austin Barrow, as MAD’s president. Aback Barrow got the call, he was alive as a Amphitheater assistant at a baby academy in Georgia. Barrow abounding El Dorado High Academy 20 years ago and had no plan of affective back. But his assuming arts accomplishments and his added contempo ability of the boondocks was key. Barrow active on, understandably careful he’d aloof fabricated a huge mistake. “We are, by default, not alone a breadth that has to aftermath accomplished content, we’re additionally business for the burghal aloof to get ourselves on the map for what we’ve created,” he says. “So my skepticism comes from, well, is it accessible for one article to booty on all those things?”

One of Barrow’s aboriginal hires was addition El Dorado High graduate, Joanna Benson, as MAD’s amusing media and business coordinator. “If we had a Target, a Sephora and a Chick-fil-a in El Dorado, my activity would be made,” she says with a laugh, flicking aback her chiffon blush beard as we’re ambagious bottomward the highway. Technology has fabricated active in alien areas like El Dorado a bit easier. Best bodies use Amazon now, she says. But for ball lovers like Benson, the arena had few options afore MAD. The one big concert she remembers from her adolescence was aback 69 Boyz came to boondocks and, actuality 12 years old at the time, she wasn’t accustomed to go. The aing time a big act came through, the affectionate she actually admired – that would be MC Hammer and Vanilla Ice in 2012 – she proudly jumped onstage to dance.

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Putting El Dorado on a touring avenue is a challenge. But it’s boxy acceptable tours to appear through Arkansas period. “No bandage is going, ‘If we don’t comedy Arkansas our career is over,’” says Michael Marion, General Manager of the Verizon Arena in Arctic Little Rock, breadth he’s appointed shows for over a decade. That’s partly because the alive music arena in Arkansas is altogether appealing new. The Verizon Arena, which seats 18,000, is Arkansas’ first, better and alone year-round concert breadth and it alone opened in 1999. The aing better music venue, the Walmart Amphitheater, is alone accessible seasonally and is decidedly newer. It was originally alleged the Arkansas Music Pavilion, amid in a basic parking lot. The Walton Arts Centermost bought the property, confused it to a added acceptable place, and reopened it in 2011.

It’s hasty that Arkansas doesn’t accept a abysmal music history aback it is amidst by so abounding places that do, like Memphis, Jackson, Birmingham, Dallas, Tupelo and Tulsa. The anointed dejection enclaves of Beale Street were actually on the added ancillary of the Mississippi River. Johnny Cash was built-in in Arkansas, but the Johnny Cash Museum is in Nashville. Sister Rosetta Tharpe is from Arkansas. So is Ne-Yo. Given all this, it feels as admitting Arkansas should be added along. Whatever mysteries captivated it aback in the accomplished are crumbling away. El Dorado is hitting the course at the appropriate time.

“Arkansas is a astounding abode for music and bodies actually don’t apprehend it,” says Jim Green, a adept concert apostle in the mid-south and Memphis area. “The accessible acumen is that it’s a agglomeration of hayseeds who are barefoot and cutting overalls and don’t accept a clue as to how the apple works. It’s such a bad misconception.” Green was in a agnate position to El Dorado aback he was a aptitude client for the Walmart Amphitheater. He spent years shuttling amid glassy offices in New York, Los Angeles and Nashville aggravating to argue bodies in business apparel to put an Arkansas date on the tour. Best of the time he was unsuccessful. He still gets a little acrimonious talking about it.

“When bodies asked me why should they comedy Arkansas, I’d say, ‘well do you appetite to advertise tickets?’ Bodies in places like Arkansas accept never had the befalling to see some of these bands,” he paused. “It’s a big deal. They’re gonna buy the T-Shirt. They’re gonna buy two T-shirts.”

The bloom of the touring industry may be alive in El Dorado’s favor in an abrupt way, explains Princeton economist Alan Krueger, who studies the touring industry. “With the concert industry acceptable as saturated as it is, bigger bands are aberration off into added absurd cities,” Krueger says. “When a top bandage plays those abate markets, they shut bottomward the accomplished city.” And whether you’re a road-tested adept like Toby Keith or topping the Billboard archive like 2Chainz and Cardi B, the claimed accolade may be account the added travel.

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As Toby Keith’s booking agent, Curt Motley, explains aback asked about MusicFest. “The bodies [at MAD] aloof gave me a alarm one day and the timing formed out. Aback you’ve been accomplishing this as continued as he has, it’s acceptable to mix up markets.”

Experiencing alive music is a gift. And, as Dr. Krueger suggests, one that is calmly taken for accepted in cities breadth the options are manifold. Concerts can be life-altering and transcendent. That’s alike added accurate in places like El Dorado and throughout the rural South, aback they’re so rare. During these miniature pilgrimages, fans’ backbone is activated as they’re awash in a car or a bus, committing hours, maybe alike days, on a alley cruise for an accident that will about aftermost two hours at the most.

The atramentous afore Tom Petty died, Smokey Robinson and the Arkansas Symphony Orra performed what after acquainted like a allegorical catastrophe to MusicFest. It was a chargeless appearance on a mild Sunday afternoon. But as the Motown brilliant glided and flirted in the ephemeral breeze, a beam of the absurd happened. For the aboriginal time that weekend, a assorted admirers stood below the date — from aged women to mothers with babies in carriages — bouncing and singing along. Article aloof clicked — as if the accomplished boondocks blood-soaked up his ability and reflected it appropriate back.

“It was the assortment that I capital so badly,” Benson explains after by phone, confused by the boondocks she about gave up on. “I saw white families; I saw atramentous families; I saw kids, young, old, aloof accepting a abundant time. I was like, ‘This is great. This is how it’s declared to be.’”

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